Lian Li Launches LANCOOL III PC Chassis

Peter_Brosdahl said:
Case and card came in yesterday and I was able to get everything(mostly) done last night. I'll post some pics later.
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You had better luck than me with getting parts. Ordered some new fans only for Newegg to let them sit in their warehouse for two days before pick up, and then another set had UPS have a sorting issue which delayed them a day. Was planning on moving things over tomorrow, but now I'll be into next week to build. Looking forward to some pics of your build though.
 
Niner51 said:
You had better luck than me with getting parts.
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I think it was the universe finally giving me a break in 2022. I also do all the supply ordering for my job and it's been a total $h!tstorm since the new year but to be honest I started seeing things getting wonky 6-months before COVID broke out due to the pissing contests of various world leaders combined with whatever crisis were already happening at the time. I feel for you and I hope it all works out.



Well, here we are. It doesn't compare to those exquisite custom loop builds we see all the time but overall I'm really happy and honestly this is the cleanest build I've done in many, many years. It's honestly hard to believe this is a mid-tower case. I spent about a half hour removing all the drive cages, there was even one underneath by the PSU. It's funny, people we're complaining about not having enough of them and I took out 4 above and a cage with 2 or 3 below. Besides that, there are slots on the other side of the motherboard for 3 SSDs. Ironically enough I'm not using any of them because I'm only using the 2 x m.2 drives on the motherboard now. That's all I need.

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I know it looks like I mixed the radiator tubes together but its a bit of an illusion. They actually just rest staggered next to each other but it looks like spaghetti from the side view. The new card is a beast. At stock this 3090 Ti hybrid automatically is hitting 2040-2050 MHz and the little bit of OC tinkering I did last night with @Brent_Justice 's settings had it peaking 2140-2190 MHz!
 
One note... I don't know how much it matters. but for that front mounted 360 rad... you want to reverse it and have the connections at the bottom of the rad rather than the top because it's better for the health of your pump/radiator setup. Since it's the GPU rad I think you have the cable length to do it.

Not that I think it wouldn't (corrected) hurt the cooling performance just impact the life of the pump.

Plus side you could hide some of the tubing behind the power supply cover and clean the look up a little to boot. (edited for stupid.)
 
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Grimlakin said:
One note... I don't know how much it matters. but for that front mounted 360 rad... you want to reverse it and have the connections at the bottom of the rad rather than the top because it's better for the health of your pump/radiator setup. Since it's the GPU rad I think you have the cable length to do it.
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How so?
 
GD videos - anyone have the TLDR?

I made it about 5 minutes before I had to stop - him stuttering and never getting to the point, I couldn't take another 25 minutes of him dragging it out to boost his ad revenue.

But if there's a legit reason I'd like to know what it is.
 
Yeah, I've seen that video but I have to find the quick setup that came with the card it actually showed something that's a bit confusing. Take a look. I admit it, I never made it all the way through that video either but I remember trying to about a month or two ago.

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Brian_B said:
GD videos - anyone have the TLDR?

I made it about 5 minutes before I had to stop - him stuttering and never getting to the point, I couldn't take another 25 minutes of him dragging it out to boost his ad revenue.

But if there's a legit reason I'd like to know what it is.
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Supposedly air bubbles with eventually gather and cause issues for the pump or something.
 
Grimlakin said:
One note... I don't know how much it matters. but for that front mounted 360 rad... you want to reverse it and have the connections at the bottom of the rad rather than the top because it's better for the health of your pump/radiator setup. Since it's the GPU rad I think you have the cable length to do it.

Not that I think it would hurt the cooling performance just impact the life of the pump.

Plus side you could hide some of the tubing behind the power supply Rad and clean the look up a little to boot.
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I might. I do normally trust Steve and the guys but I feel there are mixed messages between him and EVGA. If I interpret EVGA as saying don't put the hoses below the card that goes against what he's saying but then again their image is the entire radiator and that doesn't quite apply here either.
 
Peter_Brosdahl said:
I might. I do normally trust Steve and the guys but I feel there are mixed messages between him and EVGA. If I interpret EVGA as saying don't put the hoses below the card that goes against what he's saying but then again their image is the entire radiator and that doesn't quite apply here either.
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What EVGA is saying is do NOT mount the rad below the card. Mount the Rad ABOVE the card... which is correct for Horizontal mount. What you will want to do is have the connections to the radiator at the bottom of the rad with the card height below the top of the rad since you are vertically mounting the Rad. The whole issue with orientation is to not have air trapped in the pump but in the Rad as they are not made to be air free.
 
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Grimlakin said:
What EVGA is saying is do NOT mount the rad below the card. Mount the Rad ABOVE the card... which is correct for Horizontal mount. What you will want to do is have the connections to the radiator at the bottom of the rad with the card height below the top of the rad.
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For sure. The other problem though is the ideal way would be to disconnect the hoses to properly pipe them under. I'm pretty sure if I try to bend them into that space in front of the rad they'll be crimped, and restrict the flow to a major degree which becomes another problem. I suppose an alternative would be to use metal cutters to cut more out there so that wouldn't be an issue.
 
Peter_Brosdahl said:
For sure. The other problem though is the ideal way would be to disconnect the hoses to properly pipe them under. I'm pretty sure if I try to bend them into that space in front of the rad they'll be crimped, and restrict the flow to a major degree which becomes another problem. I suppose an alternative would be to use metal cutters to cut more out there so that wouldn't be an issue.
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I don't know your space or physical restraints within the case but....

If you look at the crappy red lines I added...


Preserving the image I just realized the epic Dumbass moment... you can't freakin detach the cables to route them through the shroud. lol. My bad. Yea that's probably the best orientation you can get without busting out the dremel.

Leaving my stupid drawing for future generations.

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Grimlakin said:
I don't know your space or physical restraints within the case but....

If you look at the crappy red lines I added...

View attachment 1775
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I had thought but I'd have to disconnect the lines to do it. I mean, at that point I'd have to bleed it and make sure there are no air bubbles and possible refill it and I don't even know what they used or what to get.
 
Peter_Brosdahl said:
I had thought but I'd have to disconnect the lines to do it. I mean, at that point I'd have to bleed it and make sure there are no air bubbles and possible refill it and I don't even know what they used or what to get.
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Yea no see my edit. I was dumb. Dremel really is the only way here and that kinda sucks. Unless they have a shorter shroud available they would swap out with you. You SHOULD be fine because you are so far from the top of the loop though based on Steve's logic.
 
Grimlakin said:
Yea no see my edit. I was dumb. Dremel really is the only way here and that kinda sucks. Unless they have a shorter shroud available they would swap out with you. You SHOULD be fine because you are so far from the top of the loop though based on Steve's logic.
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No worries. I do agree with you and Steve. I'm looking into buying metal cutting shears. Spending $20 on that isn't a problem and I've got the strength to do it. The air vent holes could actually work to my advantage.
 
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