The Z Build(s) 3.0 - Go Big and/or Go Home

I may have found a source at current pricing via the Hardforums. Will update once in my hands.



Hehe. His rack is probably a lot nicer than mine. But does he have dual MO-RA 600's? :p
Disassembled the APC rack (I think that was the brand) chillers and pulled the rads from there. It's like 40% jank.
 
Lesson learned.

Most rack cage nuts are not 1/4" 28TPI. The cage nut machine screw may fit in a 1/4" 28TPI test thread at Home Depot, but once you order (and wait for) your specialty screws of exactly the length you want, they will not fit in the cage nuts.

Apparently the cage nuts are M6x1.0. Worth noting here. An M6x1.0 screw looks almost exactly the same as a 1/4" 28TPI screw, but has an approximately 0.4mm smaller diameter, so the 1/4" screw just won't go in.

Apparently they are close enough that the M6 screw will thread in a 1/4" 28TPI hole (albeit not as tightly as designed, this should have been my hint) but vice versa just won't work.

Can you tell which is which? 😅

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Can you tell which is which? 😅
After dealing with umpteen bazillion number of cage nuts... and inserts... I can see the thread spacing looks different as well.. but honestly the shorter one because cage nut screws are normally JUST long enough to thread in through a network switch mounting 'ear'.
 
After dealing with umpteen bazillion number of cage nuts... and inserts... I can see the thread spacing looks different as well.. but honestly the shorter one because cage nut screws are normally JUST long enough to thread in through a network switch mounting 'ear'.

It's actually the long one on the left that is M6x1. 😅

The one on the right is the 1/4" 28TPI I special ordered because I needed a shorter screw so it wouldn't protrude too much on the other side and interfere with stuff. :p

No idea why these are so long. I have no idea what they came with. Might have been included with the rack itself, or were a universal set someone ordered at some point. There were a **** ton of them with the rack when I picked it up on craigslist 5 years ago.

Maybe if they were universal ones they made them extra long just to make sure they would fit whatever you needed to mount.
 
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Metric vs Standard drives me batty.

I don't really care which one - just pick one and stick with it. Ford used to drive me nuts with this.
 
Metric vs Standard drives me batty.

I don't really care which one - just pick one and stick with it. Ford used to drive me nuts with this.
I'm pretty sure you were the one driving the ford nuts. ;)
 
Metric vs Standard drives me batty.

I don't really care which one - just pick one and stick with it. Ford used to drive me nuts with this.

Honestly, usually this hasn't been a problem for me. But what really threw me off on this one was that I actually brought the screw with me to Home Depot and threaded it into the hole on that fixture they have there in the fastener aisle, it fit, but of course they didn't have 1/4" 28TPI screws, (only 20TPI) so I ordered them online, and they were still the wrong ones 😅
 
So,

Apologies for the extended period of lack of updates.

Between family obligations (travel for my dad's 80th birthday party, bachelor parties, bridal showers, weddings, baby showers, baby "sprinkles", that was a new one for me, mothers day, emergency vet visits, etc.) as well as a lot of casual overtime at work to keep up with a busy preparation for MDR certification, there simply wasn't much time to work on the project.

What little time I did have I spent on actually working on things rather than on documenting them. I intended to post stuff late at night and update with pics, but I was just too **** wiped out.

So this post kicks off some catch-up on that front.

Starting with my realization that I almost made a costly beginner mistake:

01.jpg

The mistake? With the design above I don't have any drain ports low in the loop. It would work well the first time I fill it, and then be an unholy mess to drain it.

I had bought the ball valves I wanted to install for the drain ports, but then I somehow just forgot about them when I started to cut plastic.

The ball valves are going to go between the pump and the inlet at the bottom of each radiator. But that means I need much more space between the pumps and the radiator than with this design. That, and they can't be solid, as I need the space to actually have the outlet there.

So, I went looking for material I could use. The winner became a 1.5" wide and 1" thick 1 foot long ABS bar from McMaster-Carr.

Part of the issue with these pumps is that the ports are very close to the top of the pump top, so if I want any surface to index against, I need to custom shape the bar.

What followed was heavy use of the drill press, bench grinder some drawn blood and a lot of cursing.

ABS has some advantages, but one of the drawbacks is that many tool speeds are too high, and start melting the material which is annoying.

I thought I had taken pictures of all of this, but I can't find them, so I guess I must not have.

Either way, here are the results of the new design:

02.jpg 03.jpg

The top block has cut-outs for the Tee-fitting and ball valve for the drain port, as well as a second cutout for the stopper fitting to cap off the secondary unused pump inlet.
 
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Then I remembered something else.

Someone I was having a discussion about DDC pumps with reminded me that DDC pumps can have rather short lifespans if they are allowed to run too hot.

The Freezemod pumps I bought have heatsinks on the bottom, but I decided to add a little more cooling.

01.jpg

The screw holes on the bottom of the heatsink are - however - rectangular rather than square, and don't line up with any common fan sizing.

So, it was time to make another set of brackets...

For better airflow, I was able to pry off the FreezeMod Logo plate:

02.jpg

Then I decided to create a flat brackets that cover the entire bottom except for round holes where I will mount the fans

The fans will have to be 40mm. I also don't have a lot of clearance to the next radiator, so I am going to have to go for the narrow 10mm thick fans.

The intent is for the air to be forced through over the fins and exit out the sides. There aren't too many good 40mm fans out there that aren't high rpm Deltas used in enterprise rackmountable enterprise switches or 1U servers, and sound like vacuum cleaners. It will have to be Noctua again. The NF-A4x10 PWM I hope the 1.95 mm H2O static pressure is sufficient to actually press a useful amount of air through there:

03.jpg

My experience has taught me - however - that convection is a pretty weak force, so it doesn't take much in the way of forced air to perform many times better.

04.jpg


Judging by the finger-tip feel-o-meter, there is a t least a little air coming out the sides of the heatsink gaps at full speed.

At lower speeds, I really cant tell, but there must be something.

I think it works. But ****. The Noctua color scheme is going to bother me

Unfortunately they didn't have the Redux or Chroma series in black available in this size.

I might just have to do something about that.

My builds are usually all about performance. The aesthetics are secondary, but man this is going to bother me too much if I don't.
 
So, this is where things get a little silly.

I looked into options to do away with the Noctua "Napoleon Dynamite" "Tan on Taupe" look.

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My first thought was to use automotive vinyl dye, as I have used that on plastics in the past with good results, but some searches revealed less than favorable results. Vinyl dye may be better than paint, but it still - apparently - cakes on the outside and can cause problems.

Then I found this crazy guy on Youtube who used fabric dye for synthetic fibers to dye his fans purple.

Downside? It involves boiling the item to be dyed :ROFLMAO:

He did it. He said it worked for him. I was fully prepared for this to be some sort of prank, but you know what? If I wreck my fans, I can just replace them, so why the hell not?

So we are doing it.

The key is to get the "Synthetic" version, or it does not work.

02.jpg

Unfortunately they do not make a "black" version of the Synthetic dye, only Graphite, but the instructions also say that to achieve a darker color, you can just add more of the dye, and what is black if not a darker graphite?

The instructions also said that to conceal underlying colors you may want to mix in a counter-balancing color. For brown, they recommended using their "Midnight Navy" color mixed in, but that one was out of sock everywhere locally, so I decided to go ahead with just the Graphite.

The instructions gave me the proper amount of dye to use based on the weight of the fabric, but I was not dying fabric, and I wanted to get it as dark as possible, so I filled a 3 gallon stock pot up about half way with distilled water (I figured that would work better, but that was not in the instructions), put a drop of dish soap in it as per instructions (presumably to act as a surfactant) and then just dumped the entire bottle in there.

This was many times the required amount of dye per the instructions, but I did want it dark, and I figured I was never going to use the bottle again anyway, so there was no reason to save it for later.

I figured I didn't want the fans to sit on the bottom of the pot or they might melt, so I hung them by the cable from a wire hanger I got from the dry cleaners some time ago...

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The instructions say to keep the put with the fabric to be dyed in it at a near boil, stirring occasionally for at least 30 minutes, and to add more time for a darker color. I wanted it dark, and I also presumed that plastic parts might take more time than fabrics, so I left it for an hour.

This second (possibly illegal) kitchen in the finished basement presumably installed by a previous owner of the house as some sort of in-law apartment came in handy.

Then the fans came out and I hung them to dry in front of one of the mini-split heat pump heads blowing cool dry air at them for a couple of days.

04.jpg

Once dry, the fans looked a little bit like there was excess dye stuck to the outside, so I wiped them down thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol, and they turned out looking great!

05.jpg

Hindsight being 20-20, I probably should have rinsed them off with clean water before drying them, and I wouldn't have had to do this cleaning step, but this worked.

I'm pretty impressed with the results. Everything looks black. Even the rubber vibration pads and the label on the back of the fan turned out nice, which is a bit surprising considering they started out looking like this:

NF-A4x10 PWM


They actually look like they could have come that way, which beat all of my expectations.

07.jpg

The question is, after boiling Noctua fans in black sludgy water for an hour, do they still work?


I've heard that Noctua fans have very good seals around their bearings, which is likely what resulted in this working without gumming up. I wouldn't count on this working with all fans.

06.jpg

Ahh, much better!

So, if you haven't boiled your fans, do you even enthusiast, bro? :D
 
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